BJJ Gi Material Guide: Fabrics, Blends & What to Look For
The material your BJJ gi is made from affects everything — comfort, durability, weight, shrinkage, care requirements, and competition legality. Most gis are primarily cotton-based, but the market now includes hemp blends, cotton-polyester blends, and even bamboo. This guide explains every material type available, how they compare, and what to look for when choosing your next gi.
Key Takeaways
- ✓ The vast majority of BJJ gis are made from 100% cotton or cotton-dominant blends
- ✓ Hemp blends are the most durable and antimicrobial option but cost significantly more
- ✓ Cotton-polyester blends reduce shrinkage and improve moisture-wicking
- ✓ IBJJF requires cotton or cotton-like woven fabric — full synthetic gis are not permitted
In This Guide
What Are BJJ Gis Made Of?
The vast majority of BJJ gis are made from cotton — either 100% cotton or cotton-dominant blends. Cotton has dominated gi manufacturing for decades because it offers the right combination of durability, grip texture, washability, and compliance with competition rules.
However, the market is evolving. Hemp blends have established a premium niche for their natural antimicrobial properties and exceptional durability. Cotton-polyester blends offer reduced shrinkage and improved moisture management. Bamboo blends remain rare but represent an emerging area of interest.
Material choice affects your daily training experience in several key ways:
- Comfort: Hemp and bamboo blends feel different from pure cotton — stiffer initially but often softer over time
- Durability: Hemp fibres are 3–4 times stronger than cotton; polyester blends add shape retention
- Weight: Material type combines with weave pattern to determine overall gi weight
- Price: Hemp gis cost 50–100% more than equivalent cotton gis
- Care: Different materials have different shrinkage rates and washing needs
- Competition legality: The IBJJF requires cotton or cotton-like woven fabric
Material is just one factor in gi performance — the weave pattern matters equally. A 550 GSM pearl weave cotton gi and a 550 GSM gold weave cotton gi use the same material but perform very differently.
Cotton Types
Cotton is the foundation of almost every BJJ gi on the market. Understanding the different types of cotton treatment helps you predict how a gi will fit, shrink, and perform over time.
100% Cotton (Standard)
The most common gi material. Natural cotton fibre is breathable, comfortable against the skin, and provides the grip texture that BJJ training demands. Cotton absorbs sweat readily, which makes the gi heavier during training but maintains the friction properties essential for gripping.
Key characteristics:
- Breathable and comfortable from first wear
- Good grip texture for both you and your training partners
- Shrinks 5–7% if not pre-treated — significant enough to affect sizing
- Weight varies based on weave type and fabric thickness
- Dries more slowly than synthetic fabrics due to moisture absorption
Standard untreated cotton gis are most common in the budget segment. If you buy an untreated cotton gi, factor in the expected shrinkage when choosing your size. For sizing guidance, see our BJJ gi size chart.
Preshrunk Cotton
Preshrunk cotton is the same base material but has been factory-treated to minimise shrinkage before the gi is cut and sewn. The process, called sanforisation, involves mechanically stretching and compressing the fabric to pre-shrink it before manufacturing.
Key characteristics:
- Expect only 1–2% shrinkage when washing at 30°C or below
- More predictable sizing — buy your measured size rather than sizing up
- Slightly more expensive than untreated cotton (typically 10% premium)
- Now standard on most mid-range and premium gis
Brands using preshrunk cotton: The majority of mid-range and premium brands now use preshrunk fabric as standard. Tatami's Estilo range is sanforised, as is the Tatami Elements Ultralite 2.0 (which is both mercerised and sanforised). Progress, Hyperfly, and Kingz also use pre-shrunk fabric across most of their ranges. Budget gis are more likely to use untreated cotton.
For more on managing shrinkage regardless of material, read our BJJ gi shrinkage guide.
Organic Cotton
Organic cotton is grown without synthetic pesticides, herbicides, or fertilisers, and is certified to standards such as GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard). In terms of performance on the mat, organic cotton behaves identically to conventional cotton — the difference is entirely in how it is farmed.
Key characteristics:
- Same durability, breathability, and grip as conventional cotton
- Lower environmental impact: reduced water pollution, healthier soil, no synthetic pesticides
- Typically 15–20% more expensive than conventional cotton gis
- Very limited availability in the BJJ gi market — few brands offer certified organic options
- Look for GOTS certification as proof of organic claims
Environmental context: Conventional cotton accounts for roughly 2.5% of global cropland but uses approximately 16% of the world's insecticides, according to UNEP data. Organic cotton eliminates this pesticide burden, though it may require slightly more land area to produce the same yield. For practitioners who prioritise sustainability, hemp blends offer even greater environmental benefits.
Cotton/Polyester Blends
Cotton-polyester blends combine the natural grip and breathability of cotton with the synthetic advantages of polyester. Common blend ratios include 65/35 cotton/poly, 80/20, and 55/45.
Why polyester is added:
- Reduced shrinkage: Poly fibres do not shrink, stabilising the overall fabric
- Improved moisture-wicking: Polyester moves moisture away from the skin rather than absorbing it
- Better shape retention: Poly blends hold their form through repeated washing
- Slightly reduced weight: Polyester is lighter than cotton per unit of fabric
Trade-offs:
- Slightly less natural feel against the skin
- Can pill (form small fabric balls) on the surface over time
- Different grip texture — marginally slippier than pure cotton
- Some practitioners prefer the traditional feel of 100% cotton
Examples of cotton/poly blend gis:
- War Tribe Iceweave: Pearl weave blend of cotton and performance polyester with a cooling effect
- Several brands offer ripstop pants in cotton/poly blends for enhanced durability
Competition legality: Cotton/polyester blends are permitted by the IBJJF, provided the gi meets all other requirements for woven fabric construction, measurements, and colour.
Typical GSM is comparable to pure cotton gis at the same weave density. The blend does not dramatically change the fabric weight — it changes how the fabric handles moisture, shrinkage, and long-term shape.
Hemp Blends
Hemp blends occupy the premium, sustainable segment of the BJJ gi market. Most hemp gis use a blend of 55% hemp and 45% cotton, or 60/40, though some brands such as Datsusara and Sensō offer 100% hemp gis.
Hemp Properties
Natural antimicrobial action: Hemp fibres naturally resist bacteria and odour. This is one of the most significant practical advantages — hemp gis stay fresher between washes compared to cotton. While the exact mechanism is still studied, the antimicrobial effect is well-documented and does not wash out over time (unlike factory-applied antimicrobial treatments).
Superior strength: Hemp fibres are approximately 3–4 times stronger than cotton by weight, translating directly to greater durability and longer lifespan.
Improves with age: Unlike cotton, which softens gradually, hemp fabric becomes noticeably softer and more comfortable with each wash. A hemp gi after 20+ washes feels significantly better than when new.
UV resistance: Hemp holds dye better than cotton, meaning coloured hemp gis fade less over time.
Environmental benefits: A comparative study across 28 published sources found hemp has a 38% lower crop water requirement and 60% lower water footprint compared to cotton. Hemp produces roughly 2,650 pounds of fibre per acre versus 1,190 for cotton. Cotton requires an estimated 10,000 litres of water per kilogram of fibre compared to 300–500 litres for hemp. Hemp also requires minimal to no pesticide application, while cotton accounts for roughly 16% of global pesticide use.
Hemp Gis Available in the UK
Hemp gis are more expensive and less widely available than cotton options, but UK buyers have several choices:
- Raine Clothing (UK-based): 575 GSM jacket, 375 GSM pants, EVA collar. Approximately £140–£170 with domestic UK shipping (£5.99 via Royal Mail). The most convenient option for UK buyers.
- Datsusara (US-based, ships internationally): The original hemp gi brand (since 2008). 100% hemp, 580 GSM jacket, 376 GSM pants. Approximately £150–£220 plus international shipping and potential UK customs duties.
- Flow Kimonos (US-based): Premium hemp series produced once per year due to sourcing constraints. Approximately £160+ plus international shipping. Frequently out of stock.
- Sensō Jiu Jitsu: 100% hemp, 550 GSM jacket, 375 GSM pants. International shipping required.
Cons: Significantly more expensive (£140–£250+), stiffer when new (requires a break-in period), limited colour options, fewer brands and styles available.
Best for: Eco-conscious practitioners, those with persistent odour issues, and those willing to invest in a premium, long-lasting gi.
Bamboo Blends (Rare)
Bamboo is an emerging niche material in BJJ gis, though it remains extremely rare in dedicated gi construction. When used, bamboo is processed into viscose or rayon and blended with cotton.
Properties:
- Extremely soft and comfortable from the first wear
- Good moisture-wicking characteristics
- Marketed as naturally antibacterial, though this claim is debated — the chemical processing required to convert bamboo into viscose may eliminate its natural antibacterial properties
- Bamboo is a rapidly renewable crop with environmental appeal
Trade-offs:
- Processing bamboo into usable fabric (viscose/rayon) is chemically intensive, involving sodium hydroxide and carbon disulphide — this significantly undermines the "eco-friendly" marketing
- Lower durability than cotton or hemp — bamboo viscose is not as strong
- Very limited availability — almost no dedicated BJJ gi brands currently offer bamboo gis
- Environmental claims are often overstated by manufacturers
Current availability: Bamboo blends are far more common in BJJ rashguards and base layers than in gi construction. At the time of writing, no major BJJ gi brand offers a bamboo-blend gi as a standard product line. If bamboo interests you for its comfort properties, consider it for under-gi rashguards rather than the gi itself.
GSM Weight Standards
GSM (grams per square metre) is the primary measurement of fabric density in BJJ gis. It tells you how heavy the fabric is per unit area, allowing objective comparison between different gis regardless of brand marketing.
How GSM relates to material and weave: The same cotton material can produce vastly different GSM values depending on the weave pattern. A pearl weave cotton gi typically ranges from 350–550 GSM, while a gold weave cotton gi may reach 550–1050 GSM — both from the same base material. GSM measures the finished fabric, not the raw material.
Standard GSM ranges:
- Lightweight: 250–450 GSM — Single weave, ultra-light pearl weave, ripstop. Tatami Elements Ultralite 2.0 at 250 GSM; Kingz Ultralight at 375 GSM.
- Midweight: 450–650 GSM — Standard pearl weave. Progress M6 Mark 6 at 450 GSM; Tatami Estilo 6.0 at 550 GSM. The most common range for everyday training.
- Heavyweight: 650–1100 GSM — Gold weave, double weave. Hayabusa Goorudo 3.0 at 550 GSM gold weave; Tatami Tank at 950 GSM double weave.
GSM and competition: The IBJJF does not specify a minimum or maximum GSM requirement. However, the fabric must not be "so thick or hard as to impede an opponent from gripping it," and the overall gi weight affects weigh-in (IBJJF weighs you wearing your gi). For a detailed breakdown of how weave and GSM interact, see our weave types guide.
Breathability & Moisture-Wicking
BJJ training is intense — high heart rates, close body contact, and enclosed spaces mean heat management matters. Your gi's material directly affects how hot you get during training.
Most breathable materials:
- Single weave cotton (lightest, most airflow)
- Lightweight pearl weave (250–450 GSM)
- Ripstop (for pants — extremely light and airy)
- Cotton/poly blends (polyester aids moisture-wicking)
Least breathable:
- Double weave cotton (900–1100 GSM — very dense, traps heat)
- Gold weave cotton (550–1050 GSM — heavy and warm)
- Heavyweight cotton in any weave
How materials handle moisture:
- Cotton: Absorbs moisture and holds it — the gi gets noticeably heavier during training as it soaks up sweat
- Cotton/poly blends: Polyester fibres wick moisture away from the skin rather than absorbing it, helping the gi feel less sodden during long sessions
- Hemp: Naturally manages moisture well — absorbs it but also releases it more efficiently than pure cotton
UK gym considerations: Most UK gyms are indoor and often poorly ventilated, particularly in older buildings. In summer, a lightweight gi (350–450 GSM) makes a noticeable difference to comfort. In winter, a heavier gi (450–550 GSM or above) is perfectly acceptable and may even feel more comfortable in cooler training spaces.
Antimicrobial Treatments
Given that BJJ involves close skin-to-skin contact, antimicrobial properties in gi fabric are a practical concern. There are two approaches: factory-applied treatments and naturally antimicrobial materials.
Factory-Applied Treatments
Some gi manufacturers apply antimicrobial coatings to their fabric during production. These typically use silver-ion technology or other antimicrobial compounds bonded to the fabric.
How long they last: Factory-applied antimicrobial treatments are not permanent. They typically wash out gradually over 20–50 washes, after which the fabric reverts to its base antimicrobial properties (essentially none for pure cotton). This means the protection diminishes over the first few months of regular use.
Brands using antimicrobial treatments: Several brands market antimicrobial properties, including gis with silver-ion treatments. Atama's rubber collars are described as "antibacterial," and some EVA foam collars are marketed with similar claims.
The IBJJF has no prohibition on antimicrobial treatments — they are purely an internal fabric property and do not affect competition legality.
Naturally Antimicrobial Materials
Hemp is the most effective naturally antimicrobial gi material. Its resistance to bacteria and odour is inherent to the fibre itself and does not wash out over time. This is one of the strongest practical arguments for investing in a hemp gi, especially if odour has been a persistent issue with your cotton gis.
Bamboo is often marketed as naturally antibacterial, but this is debated. The chemical processing required to convert raw bamboo into viscose or rayon may destroy the natural antibacterial properties of the original plant fibre.
DIY antimicrobial care: Regardless of material, you can maintain hygiene with simple additions to your wash routine:
- White vinegar (250ml in the rinse cycle) — kills odour-causing bacteria
- Tea tree oil (a few drops added to the wash)
- Defence Soap Laundry Liquid — specifically formulated for combat athletes, available on Amazon UK for approximately £12–£16
For a comprehensive gi hygiene routine, see our washing guide.
Durability by Material
Material is one of the most important factors in how long your gi lasts, though construction quality and care routine also play significant roles.
Durability ranking (most to least durable):
- Hemp blends: Hemp fibres are 3–4 times stronger than cotton. A well-cared-for hemp gi can last 3–5+ years of regular training.
- Double weave cotton: Two layers of fabric provide maximum resistance to wear, though the weight makes them impractical for many.
- Gold weave cotton: Dense construction delivers excellent longevity, typically 2–3+ years.
- Pearl weave cotton: The best balance of durability and weight. Expect 12–24 months with 3–4 training sessions per week and proper care.
- Cotton/poly blends: Polyester adds some longevity and shape retention. Comparable to pearl weave cotton.
- Single weave cotton: Thinnest construction wears out fastest — typically 6–12 months with regular training.
- Bamboo blends: The weakest option for gi construction, with durability concerns.
Factors beyond material: Stitching quality, reinforced stress points, collar construction, and care routine all influence lifespan significantly. A well-made single weave gi with quality stitching may outlast a poorly made pearl weave gi. For more on construction quality indicators, see our durability and quality guide.
Community-reported lifespans: Reddit discussions consistently report that quality pearl weave gis from established brands (Tatami, Progress, Scramble, Kingz) last 1–2+ years with regular training. Budget gis under £50 are frequently reported as lasting 6–12 months before showing significant wear at the knees, collar, or seams.
IBJJF Material Requirements
The IBJJF (International Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu Federation) sets the most widely followed standards for competition gi materials. Here is what you need to know:
What IBJJF officially requires:
- Gis must be tailored using cotton or cotton-like fabric
- A gi fashioned from woven fabric is mandatory for juvenile, adult, and master divisions
- The fabric must not be so thick or hard as to impede an opponent from gripping it
- Collar thickness must not exceed 1.3 cm, with a width of 5 cm
- EVA foam or similar material inside the collar is permitted if size and rigidity regulations are met
- No rubber or plastic materials for the main gi body
- No grip-technology gis — if the gi is too difficult to grab, it can be disqualified
What is allowed:
- Cotton, cotton blends (including cotton/polyester), hemp, ripstop (primarily for pants)
- Pearl weave, gold weave, single weave, double weave
- EVA foam collar construction
What is NOT allowed:
- Full synthetic gis
- Excessively thick or thin fabrics that prevent gripping
- Slippery-coated fabrics or grip-reduction technology
- Colours other than white, royal blue, or black
Practical advice: If you plan to compete, a pearl weave cotton gi in white, blue, or black is always the safest choice. Material type is rarely an issue at inspection — fit, measurements, and sleeve/pant length are far more commonly flagged. The IBJJF updated its uniform rules in late 2024, reducing the sleeve and pant length tolerance from 5 cm to 2 cm, so check the current rulebook at ibjjf.com/uniform before competing.
Material Comparison Table
Use this table to quickly compare all BJJ gi materials at a glance:
| Material | Durability | Breathability | Shrinkage | Price Impact | IBJJF Legal | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 100% Cotton | Good | Good | 5–7% | Baseline | Yes | Standard training |
| Preshrunk Cotton | Good | Good | 1–2% | +10% | Yes | Predictable sizing |
| Organic Cotton | Good | Good | 5–7% | +15–20% | Yes | Eco-conscious |
| Cotton/Poly Blend | Very Good | Good | 2–4% | Similar | Yes | Durability seekers |
| Hemp Blend | Excellent | Good | 2–3% | +50–100% | Yes | Premium, antimicrobial |
| Bamboo Blend | Fair | Excellent | Variable | +20–30% | TBC | Comfort seekers |
Comparison
| Material | Durability | Breathability | Shrinkage | Price Impact | IBJJF Legal | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 100% Cotton | Good | Good | 5–7% | Baseline | Yes | Standard training |
| Preshrunk Cotton | Good | Good | 1–2% | +10% | Yes | Predictable sizing |
| Organic Cotton | Good | Good | 5–7% | +15–20% | Yes | Eco-conscious |
| Cotton/Poly Blend | Very Good | Good | 2–4% | Similar | Yes | Durability seekers |
| Hemp Blend | Excellent | Good | 2–3% | +50–100% | Yes | Premium, antimicrobial |
| Bamboo Blend | Fair | Excellent | Variable | +20–30% | TBC | Comfort seekers |
Related Guides
BJJ Gi Weave Types Explained
The weave pattern affects performance as much as the material — see our complete weave guide.
BJJ Gi Durability & Quality Guide
Learn how to assess construction quality beyond just material type.
BJJ Gi Shrinkage Guide
Material type is the biggest factor in shrinkage — learn how to manage it.
How to Wash a BJJ Gi
Care requirements differ by material — see our washing guide.
Best BJJ Gi Brands Compared
Learn which brands use which materials in our brand comparison.
Best BJJ Gis in the UK
Find gis in every material type in our top UK picks.
Frequently Asked Questions
What material are BJJ gis made of?
The vast majority of BJJ gis are made from 100% cotton or cotton-dominant blends. Cotton provides the durability, grip texture, and washability that BJJ training demands. Alternatives include cotton-polyester blends (for reduced shrinkage), hemp blends (for superior durability and natural antimicrobial properties), and rare bamboo blends. The IBJJF requires cotton or cotton-like woven fabric for competition.
Is cotton or polyester better for a BJJ gi?
Pure cotton is the traditional choice and provides the best grip texture for BJJ. Cotton-polyester blends offer practical advantages: reduced shrinkage (2–4% vs 5–7% for untreated cotton), better moisture-wicking, and improved shape retention. Most practitioners prefer 100% cotton or preshrunk cotton for the natural feel and grip. If shrinkage and moisture management are priorities for you, a cotton/poly blend is worth considering.
Are hemp BJJ gis worth the extra cost?
Hemp gis are worth the premium if you value durability, sustainability, and natural odour resistance. Hemp fibres are 3–4 times stronger than cotton and naturally resist bacteria without any chemical treatment. However, at £140–£250+, they cost significantly more than cotton gis. For UK buyers, Raine Clothing offers the most accessible option with domestic shipping at approximately £140–£170. If budget is a concern, a quality pearl weave cotton gi at £60–£120 will serve most practitioners well.
What does GSM mean for a BJJ gi?
GSM stands for grams per square metre and measures the density of gi fabric. A higher GSM means heavier, denser fabric. Lightweight gis range from 250–450 GSM, midweight from 450–650 GSM, and heavyweight from 650–1100 GSM. GSM is determined by both the material and the weave pattern — the same cotton can produce very different GSM values depending on whether it is woven in a pearl, gold, or double weave pattern.
Does the material affect how much a BJJ gi shrinks?
Yes, material composition is the biggest factor in shrinkage. Untreated 100% cotton shrinks 5–7%, while preshrunk cotton shrinks only 1–2%. Cotton-polyester blends shrink 2–4% because polyester fibres resist shrinkage. Hemp blends typically shrink 2–3%. Always wash at 30°C or below and air dry to minimise shrinkage regardless of material.
What material is best for a BJJ beginner?
A preshrunk cotton gi in pearl weave is the best choice for most beginners. It offers predictable sizing, good durability, comfortable breathability, and is IBJJF-legal if you decide to compete. Budget-friendly options from brands like Tatami (Nova range), Fuji (All Around), and Valor start from £40–£70. Avoid spending heavily on hemp or premium gis until you are confident in your size and training frequency.
Are there antimicrobial BJJ gis?
Yes, in two forms. Some gis have factory-applied antimicrobial treatments (silver-ion coatings), but these wash out after 20–50 washes. Hemp gis are naturally antimicrobial — the fibre itself resists bacteria and odour, and this property does not diminish over time. For persistent odour issues, a hemp gi is the most effective long-term solution, though adding white vinegar or tea tree oil to your regular wash routine also helps with any cotton gi.
What material does IBJJF require for competition gis?
The IBJJF requires gis made from cotton or cotton-like woven fabric. Cotton, cotton-polyester blends, and hemp are all permitted. Full synthetic gis, slippery-coated fabrics, and gis with grip-reduction technology are not allowed. The fabric must allow opponents to grip it effectively. In practice, a pearl weave cotton gi in white, blue, or black is always the safest choice for competition.
Do bamboo BJJ gis exist?
Bamboo BJJ gis are extremely rare. While bamboo viscose is used in some athletic apparel for its softness and moisture-wicking properties, it has durability concerns for the demands of BJJ training. At the time of writing, no major BJJ gi brand offers a bamboo-blend gi as a standard product line. Bamboo is more commonly found in BJJ rashguards and base layers than in gi construction.
What is the most durable BJJ gi material?
Hemp is the most durable BJJ gi material. Hemp fibres are approximately 3–4 times stronger than cotton, and a well-cared-for hemp gi can last 3–5+ years of regular training. After hemp, double weave and gold weave cotton constructions offer the highest durability, followed by standard pearl weave cotton. Construction quality (stitching, reinforcements) matters as much as raw material strength — see our durability and quality guide for what to look for.
Understanding materials is step one
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Browse Best UK GisLast updated: 1 February 2026